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Harnessing Up for the First Time

20 min

The harness, the commands and the buddy check, first time through

Equipment: A harness per athlete, plus one spare to demonstrate on

Learn it

Name the parts of the harness with a spare one in your hands, then have them find the same parts on their own.

  • The hard points
  • The belay loop and the gear loops, and which of the two is load bearing
  • How to tell a harness is on correctly

Climbing commands. Insist on using each other's names with every one of these.

  • On belay? / Belay is on. Climbing? / Climb on.
  • Take? / Gotcha. Lower me! / Lowering.
  • Take! / Gotcha! Resting! / Gotcha.

The buddy check. Walk them through it out loud every single time, in this order.

  • Climber: harness, knot, follow the rope up to the belayer.
  • Belayer: harness, knot, belay device, carabiner, then the climber's harness, the climber's knot, and the rope.

Apply it

In pairs, harness on, then a full buddy check on each other out loud. Both of them say it and both of them touch each item, so the pair is checking its own work before you arrive.

Half the group to each coach, and you circuit your pairs rather than standing over one. Land on a pair, listen to one complete check, correct what needs it, move on. Five athletes is two pairs and a three, and all of them are working the whole time.

Then the command sequence from the ground, both parts, using names. Swap and repeat until both of them can run it without being prompted through the order.

Demonstrate understanding

  • The harness goes on the right way round without help.
  • They run the buddy check in order without skipping the climber's knot.
  • They use their partner's name in the commands rather than shouting into the room.

If the concept isn't sticking

The check becomes a mumble. Make them touch each item as they say it. Hands slow the words down.

They forget the order. Always start at your own harness and work along the rope. The order is physical, not memorized.