Resource library

Coaching Craft

Lesson Plans

Lesson plans

Where it runs
Age group
Program type
Basic Footwork

Which part of the shoe to stand on, and how to switch feet

11-134-56-89-10CampIOYC
Bouldering area

30 min

Bouldering (Footwork/Technique)

Here is a list of essentials to build different aspects of athletes bouldering

14+
Bouldering area

240 min

Break

Water and snack.

Off the wall

Clean-up

All campers pack up their things and get ready to go.

Off the wall

Climbing Games

Pick a game from the library that suits this group

11-134-56-89-10CampIOYCRec
Bouldering area

20 min

Climbing Words

Send, flash, redpoint, project: the words coaches use all session

Bouldering area

10 min

Commands and Eights

Reinforcing the knot, the commands and the buddy check

11-136-89-10IOYCRec
Rope area

20 min

First Laps on a Rope

One coach on the rope, the other half bouldering, and a job for everybody in between

6-8IOYC
Rope area

30 min

Flagging and Smearing

Use the free foot as a counterweight so the reach does not spin you off

11-136-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2pS3
Bouldering area

35 min

Full Value Contract

Rules/Consequences specific to that group

Off the wall

Harnessing Up for the First Time

The harness, the commands and the buddy check, first time through

11-136-89-10IOYCRec
Rope area

20 min

Hips and Center of Gravity

Why you cannot move a foot your hips are parked over

11-134-5CampIOYCRecS1S2
Bouldering area

30 min

Introductions and Ice Breakers

Everyone says their name, then a game that makes them use each other's

11-1314+4-56-89-10
Off the wall

15 min

Know Your Holds

Name what the hand is on, then hold it the way it wants to be held

Bouldering area

15 min

Learn to Fall

The first risk management skill every bouldering athlete needs

11-136-89-10CampIOYC
Bouldering area

10 min

Learning to Belay

Loading the device, PBUS, and never letting go of the brake hand

11-1314+9-10IOYCRec
Rope area

60 min

Learning to Project

How to work a climb you cannot do yet

11-1314+4-56-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2pS3
Bouldering area

45 min

Lunch
Off the wall

Non-Climbing Warm-up

Pulse raiser and mobility.

Off the wall

10 min

Open Bouldering

Free climbing time, applying whatever the session taught

11-136-89-10CampIOYCRec
Bouldering area

Open Rope Climbing

Free climbing time, applying whatever the session taught

11-136-89-10CampIOYCRec
Rope area

Projecting

Pick a real project and work it for a whole session

11-1314+6-89-10IOYCRec
Bouldering area

45 min

Refresher: Falling, Toes and Etiquette

Keep falling comfortable and keep asking for toes

11-136-89-10IOYC
Bouldering area

20 min

Ropes (Strength+Endurance TCC)

All athletes will belay each other. If they do not have prior knowledge of how to belay they will be taught in their first few sessions. The goal of teaching belaying is to get them gym certified.

14+
Rope area

180 min

Route Reading

Make a plan before leaving the ground, then check it against what happened

11-136-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2p
Bouldering area

30 min

Route Reading: First Look

First time making a plan before you climb

11-136-89-10IOYCRec
Bouldering area

30 min

Rules and Etiquette

Climb well, respect others, listen to your coaches, and be a great teammate!

11-1314+4-56-89-10CampIOYC
Off the wall

10 min

Silent Feet

Place it once, quietly, and look at it until it lands

11-134-56-89-10CampIOYCRecS1S2
Bouldering area

15 min

Snack

15 minute break

Camp
Bouldering area

Static vs Dynamic Movement

When to reach for it and when to move for it

11-136-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2p
Bouldering area

30 min

Straight Arm Climbing

Straight arms, and finding a rest between every move

11-136-89-10IOYCRec
Bouldering area

45 min

Strength / Endurance

Here is a list of essentials to build different aspects of athletes bouldering

14+
Bouldering area

240 min

Stretch and Debrief

Stretch, then mountain, valley, sun round the circle

Off the wall

15 min

TCC (Open Projecting)

All athletes will belay each other. If they do not have prior knowledge of how to belay they will be taught in their first few sessions. The goal of teaching belaying is to get them gym certified.

Bouldering area

TCC / Ropes (Projecting)

All athletes will belay each other. If they do not have prior knowledge of how to belay they will be taught in their first few sessions. The goal of teaching belaying is to get them gym certified.

14+
Rope area

TCC / Ropes (Techniques)

All athletes will belay each other. If they do not have prior knowledge of how to belay they will be taught in their first few sessions. The goal of teaching belaying is to get them gym certified.

14+
Rope area

TCC Route Reading (Bouldering)

Here is a list of essentials to build different aspects of athletes bouldering

14+
Bouldering area

Top Rope Test 1/2

Run to the gym's top rope test standards

11-1314+9-10IOYCRec
Rope area

60 min

Top Rope Test 2/2

Run to the gym's top rope test standards

11-1314+9-10IOYCRec
Rope area

60 min

Tying In

The figure eight follow-through, and how to spot a bad one

11-1314+6-89-10
Rope area

20 min

Warm Up: Climbing Pyramid

Build up to your hardest tag, three then two then one

11-136-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2p
Bouldering area

15 min

Warm Up: Sloths vs Monkeys

The same climb slow and precise, then fast and swinging

11-1314+4-56-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2p
Bouldering area

10 min

Warm Up: Traverse

Climbing sideways, low, with the technique from last week

11-136-89-10IOYCRecS1S2S2pS3
Bouldering area

10 min

Warm Up: Up Downs

Climb it, then climb back down under control

11-134-56-89-10CampIOYCRecS1S2S2pS3
Bouldering area

10 min

Warm-up (TCC)

Warm-up specifically for TCC

14+
Bouldering area

20 min

Printables

IOYC Certificate of Completion

This is a certificate to pass out to kids once IOYC has been completed.