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Static vs Dynamic Movement

30 min

When to reach for it and when to move for it

Learn it

Sit them in a circle and ask what they do when a hold is too far away. Collect the answers before you give any.

Static is reaching it with strength and position rather than momentum.

  • Hip shapes, which buy you reach for free.
  • Standing up tall on your toes.
  • Lock-offs, holding the pull while the other hand travels.
  • Three points of contact the whole way.

Dynamic is using momentum to cover ground you cannot reach.

  • Building momentum with the whole body, not the arms.
  • Driving with the feet.
  • Staying in line with the direction of the move.
  • A deadpoint is the still moment at the top of the movement. That is when you catch the hold.

Apply it

Same problem twice, once as slowly as they can and once with momentum, then ask which suited it.

Follow with a jumpy problem and a slabby one, so the answer comes from the terrain rather than from you. Half the group and a coach on each, then swap, so both are running at once and the question gets asked of every athlete rather than of whoever is at the front of a line of ten.

Demonstrate understanding

  • They can name a move on the problem that wanted momentum and one that wanted patience.
  • A deadpoint catch that is caught at the top of the movement, not on the way down.
  • They rest between moves on the static attempt rather than rushing it.

If the concept isn't sticking

Everything becomes a jump. Ban dynamic movement for one climb. Static is the harder discipline and the one that transfers.

They will not commit to a dyno. Lower the target. A dynamic move to a hold a hand's width away still teaches the timing.